– ‘Medium’ works best if it is a street view where cars and people are moving, or tree leaves are blown by the wind – ‘None’ is perfect if it is - for example - an interior where there are no moving elements in the image – ‘Deghost Amount’ I typically only ever choose two of the four options: This gives me a good starting point after the merge – ‘Auto Settings’ is another option I leave on. This will align your layers, especially if your brackets were taken handheld
Now you will see a panel with not many options:
In Lightroom you have to be in the Develop module panel, select the three (or five) bracketed exposures, and go to ‘Photo’ -> ‘Photo Merge’ -> HDR (Short key is Ctrl+H). My clients are very happy with this method, and I am too! There are of course times when more detail work needs to happen and I have to really dedicate time to the slower ways of doing things, but as long as the end result is what I like, I don’t have a problem with editing less! The Football Capsule, Budapest, Hungary – BORD Architectural Studio How does this work? This method allows me to edit and deliver them in roughly 3 to 5 hours. When I do a day-long shoot at one house, I can create upwards of 50 images. So I have to be efficient with my edit time, otherwise, I’ll be sitting in front of the computer for what feels like forever. CEU, Budapest, Hungary – O’Donnell + Tuomey Architects I’ve found that, in general, it is much faster to skip deghosting. That’s all it takes! If your photo includes any objects that move from frame to frame (leaves, cars, people), you can experiment with the “Deghost amount” to fine-tune it. By pressing Ctrl+Shift+H, the selection of exposures is merged. So why am I merging these layers into an HDR through Lightroom? Why not just open three exposures, export them to Photoshop, run scripts and load the files into the stack, then blend with luminosity masks and save? That is SO many steps, and merging to HDR through Lightroom is just one command. CKK Jordanki, Torun, Poland – Fernando Menis Architects
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When editing the stack, you can even change white balance and other small details, which usually isn’t possible when using other merging programs (please share with us in the comments if you have a preferred merging software that allows you to control factors like this). This lets you edit it after merging them as a single raw file, while containing all of the data from each of your exposures. It combines your bracketed exposures into one HDR file while leaving the raw information in a DNG file. Lightroom has a feature called “Photo Merge” where you can create either a panorama (Ctrl+M) or HDR (Ctril+H) image from a group of photos. I’m not saying it is perfect or absolutely better than other methods, but I will show you what works for me! Haus der Musik, Innsbruck, Austria – *Disclosure: This is very much my personal opinion. This simple program, mixed with subtle techniques, creates a much more convincing picture. Why doesn’t my work scream “HDR”? I’ll tell you why: I used Lightroom’s “HDR Merge” instead of a third-party HDR Software. Now I have to admit that I do use HDR techniques in the majority of my work, but not necessarily the kind that immediately pops into most people’s heads. But in most architecture and interior work, conventional HDR run through an app or action usually turns out pretty ugly.
Don’t get me wrong tasteful HDR like the work of Trey Ratcliff as an artistic choice, now that can be cool.
We’ve all seen the over-processed HDR real estate photos where the colors and tones are off, and everything looks crispy and awful.
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HDR has become a dirty word in professional architectural photography.